Whether you’re a professional or a beginner woodworker, it’s important to have a good understanding of the different types of Stanley hand planes and how they can benefit you. Here are a few tips that will help you choose the right tool for your needs.
Common damage on a stanley hand plane
Regardless of whether or not you have a Stanley hand plane, chances are you have come across a common problem. However, before you go out and replace the knob or the iron, there are some steps you can take to remedy the situation. Firstly, you can use a file to clean the joint. Secondly, you can protect your tool with a rubber band. Finally, you should store it in a tool box.
Thankfully, this is a task that can be done easily by hand. Just be careful of wobbly mountings and a wobbly tote. If you can’t get it to fit properly, you may need to use a flat screwdriver to tighten the screws.
On a related note, the Stanley #4 3/8 smoothing plane was the first model to get the fractional designation in the Stanley line. It’s a wide and heavy plane. The #4 1/2C was also a popular design, but was aimed at heavier infilled planes.
Throughout the 1880s and early 1900s, Stanley made tools that were popular among woodworkers. The company’s newest tools included a variety of smoothing planes. The first of these was the #4 3/8 smoothing plane, which is wider and heavier than most of the smoothing planes produced by Stanley.
Stanley also made a #6 jointer, which was advertised as being short. The #6C fore plane was offered from 1898 through 1970. The larger version of this plane was called the Stanley Type 10 plane. The rib on this plane is arched.
The fourth of Stanley’s smoothing planes, the #4C, is a good example of a plan with a built-in oiler. It has a 9″ length, 2″ width, and weighs 3 3/4 pounds. It also features tilting handles.
The fourth of Stanley’s planes was not its main product line. This was a smaller, less expensive plane that was marketed to consumers who were unwilling to spend money on an expensive plane.
Lever cap designs
During the late 1800s, Stanley had been expanding their product line. One of the things they were doing was introducing new tools. They had a wide assortment of tools, including #66, #190 and 192. They also manufactured planes. In fact, they were known for their #4 1/2C bench planes in England. These planes had nickel plated lever caps.
A few years after the Civil War, Leonard Bailey designed a new line of bench planes. Stanley purchased the Bailey patents. Although Bailey’s design was superior, it was not resilient enough to stand up to the demands of a modern plane. Consequently, Stanley decided to modify the design. The result was the Victor line of bench planes.
This plane is a smooth #4. It has a 2″ wide cutter, a built-in oiler and tilting handles. The outside of the plane has flat black japanning. It is a striking piece of work when it is in mint condition.
While the #4 is a relatively common size, the #4 1/2 is a more rare plane. It is known for the longest time in this country. However, it is not a popular model among collectors.
Various jobs can be done with Stanley hand planes. They are handy for smoothing surfaces, levelling, truing, and trimming. Some have blades designed for cutting profiles. However, these are not very common. They are made from cast iron or bronze.
The chisel plane is a type of hand plane that is used to cut small layers of wood. This is achieved by shaving it in a series of light cuts. These fine shavings prevent tearout.
A chisel plane is also useful for cleaning into corners of a stopped rebate. It can also be used to trim proud wooden dowels. It can also trim dried drips between coats of paint.
To make a good edge, the chisel should be in good condition. It should be straight and not crooked. You should also use a sharp blade. The best chisels have two bevels, which will save steel.
When the chisel is in good condition, it will be easy to sharpen. It should have a bevel of 25 degrees. A 25-degree bevel is easier to grind.